Toe per wheel, axle totals and thrust angle from string line measurements, with the setup sheet saved on your phone so it comes back to the paddock with you. Two strings outside the car, a steel rule and this page will get a club race car within a couple of minutes of where it should be on every wheel. The numbers are only as good as the strings and the rule, so the page checks the string setup as well as doing the sums, and tells you how much error the strings are putting in.

Setting toe in the paddock without an alignment rig Checking the car after a kerb strike or an off Finding why the steering wheel is not straight Keeping a setup sheet per car per event
Credit
Based on the original string gauge tool for the 986 and 987 by Dom “Peaches” McGee - Day One Motorsport.
Starting Point

Vehicle

Porsche 986 Boxster - side profile Porsche 987 Boxster - side profile Porsche 987 Cayman - side profile McLaren 570S - side profile Ford Fiesta ST150 - side profile Peugeot 106 Rallye - side profile
Porsche 987 Cayman
Optional, But Do It

String Setup Check

Every toe number on this page is measured against the strings, so any error in the strings goes straight into the answer. Two things matter. The strings must be parallel to each other, and they must be parallel to the car. The first you have to get right. The second this page can measure and take out for you.

Hub gaps - string to hub centre

Front of car ↑
Front left
Front right
Rear left
Rear right
Front and rear gaps will not match each other, because front and rear track and wheel offsets differ. Only left against right on the same axle matters.

String separation - are the strings parallel?

The Readings

Rim Measurements

String to rim at hub height, on the same rim surface front and back. Leading is the edge nearest the front of the car. The layout below is the car seen from above, so the left column is the left side of the car.

Front of car ↑
Front left
Front right
Front axle measuring span
Rear left
Rear right
Rear axle measuring span
Where The Wheels Point

Alignment Results

Provisional
Tick the string check box above once the strings are parallel, the steering is centred and the car has been rolled to settle. Until then treat these numbers as a first look, not a setting.
Toe in Toe out String Thrust line
Optional

Toe Targets

Positive for toe in. Enter it per wheel or as an axle total, whichever your setup sheet uses. An axle total is split equally between the two wheels. Every corner above then shows which way to go, how far, and how much the leading gap has to change relative to the trailing gap to get there.

No targets are preloaded for any car. Use the figure for your car, series and intended use, not a number off a forum.
Keep It

Setup Sheet

Camber (°)
Ride height (mm)
Cold pressure
FL
FR
RL
RR
Camber negative for top of the wheel in, from a separate camber gauge. Pressure in whatever unit you work in, so write the unit in.

Saved sheets

Sheets live on this device only
Saved sheets are kept in this browser on this phone or laptop. Nothing is sent anywhere. Clearing the browser's site data deletes them, and Safari on an iPhone can clear them on its own if you do not visit the page for about a week. Adding the page to your home screen stops that. Either way, back up all sheets to a file after each event. The backup restores on any device.
Know What You Are Looking At

Accuracy And Method

The sums
Δ = leading gap - trailing gap (positive is toe in, either side)
toe = atan(Δ / span)
axle total = left toe + right toe
thrust angle = (rear left toe - rear right toe) / 2 (positive points right)
front toe to thrust line: left - thrust, right + thrust
string rotation = ((RL - RR) - (FL - FR)) / (2 × wheelbase) from hub gaps
Δ for a target = span × tan(target)

1° = 60 minutes. Span is the distance between the two points you measured to on the rim.
The span is the number everyone gets wrong
Strings sit outside the tyre, so you measure to the rim lip, not to the bead seat. The nominal rim size is the bead seat diameter. The lip on a standard J flange stands 17.5 mm proud of it, so the lip span on an 18in wheel is about 492 mm, not 457 mm. Use 457 mm for a lip measurement and every angle on the page reads about 7.7% high. That is why the default here is the rim lip. If your rim has a stepped or unusual lip, measure across your two contact points and enter it as your own span.
Your rule decides how good the answer can be
On a 492 mm span, a 0.5 mm reading error is 3.5 minutes on that wheel. Most club toe settings are a few minutes per wheel, so a rule read to the nearest millimetre cannot set them. Use a steel rule with half millimetre graduations, read both edges the same way, take every reading twice and average. Display rounding on this page is not measurement accuracy.
Why the hub gaps are worth taking
If the strings are parallel to each other but not to the car, the totals are still right but every individual wheel and the thrust angle are wrong by the same amount. The hub gaps measure that rotation. A 1 mm difference between the front and rear left to right gaps on a 2415 mm wheelbase is 0.7 minutes, so small errors are not worth chasing. A sloppy setup with 5 mm in it is 3.6 minutes on every wheel, which is. The correction assumes the hubs are symmetrical about the car's centreline. A bent upright or arm breaks that assumption, and so does a car with different offsets left and right.
What this page does not do
It does not measure camber or caster. Camber needs a gauge on the hub face and caster needs a steered sweep. It does not tell you how many turns of the track rod to make either, because that depends on thread pitch and the steering arm length. It tells you the rim gap change you need, and you adjust, settle and measure again until you get there.
Kit

What You Need To Do This Properly

Strings
String line alignment kit
Two stands at each end, adjustable for height, with braided line that does not stretch. Stands that can be set and locked at hub height save more time than anything else on this list.
ASIN TODO - SiteStripe link required
Measurement
150 mm steel rule, half millimetre graduations
The accuracy of the whole job is set here. A rule graduated in whole millimetres cannot resolve the settings most race cars run.
ASIN TODO - SiteStripe link required
Measurement
Digital camber gauge
Magnetic, sits on the hub face. Zero it on the floor plate first, because a level floor in a paddock is a rumour.
ASIN TODO - SiteStripe link required
Setup
Steering wheel holder
Locks the wheel centred while you adjust. Without it the front toe moves every time someone leans on the car.
ASIN TODO - SiteStripe link required
FAQ

String Alignment Questions

Parallel to each other, yes. Square to the car, not if you take the hub gaps. Non-parallel strings put an error into the axle totals that nothing on the page can separate out, so set the separation equal at both stands before you measure anything.

Once they are parallel, a small rotation relative to the car only shifts toe from one side of the car to the other. The hub gaps measure how much, and the correction tick box takes it out. You still want it close, because the correction relies on the hubs being symmetrical.

Because the car drives along its thrust line, not its centreline. If the rear wheels have uneven toe, the rear axle steers the car slightly, and the driver holds a little opposite lock to go straight. Setting the front toe equal side to side relative to the centreline then leaves the wheel off centre.

Fix the rear first so the thrust angle is close to zero, then set the front. If the rear cannot be adjusted, set the front to the "relative to thrust line" figures instead of the plain ones. That gives a straight steering wheel with the car crabbing very slightly.

Only if you know the diameter it was quoted at. A millimetre toe figure is a distance across a wheel, so the same angle is a bigger number on a bigger wheel. 1 mm over a 457 mm span is 7.5 minutes. 1 mm over a 492 mm span is 7.0 minutes. Spec sheets are often quoted at a reference diameter that is neither of those.

If the sheet does not say, ask whoever wrote it. If you know the diameter, convert to minutes yourself and enter minutes. Selecting mm here uses your own measuring span, which is only right if the spec was quoted at that span.

With strings and a decent rule, about two minutes per wheel is realistic and repeatable. Better than that and you are inside the reading error. That is why the tolerance defaults to two minutes. Getting both sides of an axle equal matters more than getting the total exactly on the number, because unequal toe on the rear is a thrust angle and unequal toe on the front is a crooked steering wheel.

Always roll the car back and forward and remeasure after an adjustment. Tyres and bushes hold load after a car has been jacked, and the first reading after lowering it is rarely the one it settles at.

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